FAQ

---

For rough estimates without visiting the property I don't charge anything. Just give me as many details as you can via email, text, or phone and I will do my best to give you a rough idea of how much you are looking at for labor.

However, if I am to proceed with an estimate, a detailed and accurate assessment of the project will be necessary. I will need to visit your property and spend time with precise measurements and calculations. This is a service that I DO charge for and a crucial part of the process.

Getting you an accurate estimate for a project takes me around 2-4 hours depending on the scope of the project. I will also offer my substantial experience when it comes to selecting flooring and other materials. Not all products and suppliers are created equal. My time and the information that I provide in this process is valuable.

I charge $40 for small projects and $80 for large ones. If you decide to hire me to do the work, I will refund this fee in the final invoice in full.

Consultation includes:

• Scheduled meeting with you at the project site.
• Detailed measurements that I take to create a bid.
• An emailed bid that when mutually agreed upon will become an invoice.
• Guidance on selecting materials and styles: flooring, trim, paint, etc...

My contract states that I will perform quality, professional work to the best of my ability and to industry standards. I will not cause damage to your home or void the warranty of your product.

Also stated in my contract: if there is any issue with my work, I will come back and fix it at no cost if I determine it to be a flaw in my workmanship.

I also offer maintenance and repair work at my hourly rate after installation.

Lastly, you may read my long list of positive reviews from previous clients as well as view my extensive project portfolio. I think these testimonials and photos speak for themselves.
 

I want to highlight the importance of the consultation phase. Selecting the right materials and colors is crucial and it pays to think carefully when making these choices. Ultimately, this is the client's responsibility.

If at any point during the installation something doesn't seem right, lets talk about it!

Payment of the second installment when the the job is finished implies satisfaction with my work.

If you have a cosmetic change of heart, I will not cover that in my guarantee.

Product issues must be taken up with the supplier. I am not responsible for damage to your floor after installation, nor am I responsible for poor quality products.

If you want something uninstalled/reinstalled because you don't like it, not because it was installed incorrectly, my normal rates will apply.

A common example of this scenario is that I remove the existing floor and discover that the subfloor is unsuitable for installing the new floor over.

At which point, I will stop, contact the client and discuss options. If it is a simple matter of repair or spot leveling I will add the work to the final invoice.

If the labor is involved enough, I will have to submit a separate bid on the work with a new contract and deposit.

I have a local Silver City business license. My company is also a licensed LLC and i do pay state and federal taxes as a business.

However, I am NOT a licensed contractor. That means I can only offer cosmetic services such as flooring, painting, and basic repairs. I don't build houses or do major structural work.

Floating floors, especially rigid ones require fairly flat subfloors for installation. Around 80% of the jobs I undertake require some kind of subfloor leveling or repair. In most cases it is a simple matter of sanding or grinding down high spots and filling in low spots.

In more extreme cases I will need to either install an entirely new layer of subfloor or pour a layer of self leveling concrete to bring your subfloor to spec.

Not at this time. I offer spot repair only for drywall.

No, this is not a part of my skill-set and I do not offer that service. If it comes in a sheet or roll (besides underlayment and subfloor) I don't install it.

In new construction and with open floor plan you can sometimes run all the planks in the longest direction of the house. But in a remodel that is often not practical or even desirable.

These are the factors that are commonly used to make the best choice:  

1. Planking oriented in the direction of the main traffic or the direction of room entrance, especially exterior doors. 

2. Planking oriented in the direction of the dominant light source 

3. Planking oriented in the direction of the longest dimension of the room (in most cases this wins out); 

4. Planking oriented so that the least number of planks are cut 

5. Planking oriented to change directions at adjacent rooms when differentiation is desired.

For nail down hardwood it is advisable to go perpendicular to the floor joists.

You can also run a floor diagonally, or even change direction in a room with certain types of products although this is an additional charge. Hardwood tongue and groove floors open themselves to all sorts of creative patterns. This is commonly called a "parquet" floor.

Each product will have its own specifications, however generally speaking, any item weighing under 500lbs will be fine over a properly installed floating floor.

Anything heavier than this could cause the floor to buckle or pull apart due to being pinned down at that point. Special measures will have to be taken to prevent this.

Commonly, transitions strips called "reducers" are used. These cover the expansion gap while providing a kind of "mini-ramp" to bridge the height difference.

If the height difference is more than 1/2in it is advisable to create a custom transition otherwise it is likely to be a tripping hazard.

In some cases, a new subfloor will need to be installed in the lower areas to bring the floor all to the same level.